Week 9: The village of the Red Heated Soil

When driving from Yerevan to Shikahogh village, one can observe the soil gradually turning from earth brown to red tinted.

The red soil of Shikahogh

The name Shikahogh (orange earth or red, heated soil) comes from the orangey, fiery red colour of soil in the area. Scientists say the ten thousand hectares of forest help to moderate hot winds blowing from desert plains in Iran to the south. The vegetation is also influenced by air from the Caspian Sea to the east. These climatic conditions have created a mix of flora and fauna unique to the region, they say. The oldest parts of the forests in Shikahogh are 1,000 years old. The growth is so thick in places it block out almost all sunlight, meaning that deep in the forest even the brightest days can seem dark here. Experts say the local ecosystem has been kept intact largely because of the region’s remoteness.

Shikahogh is also a home for one of Armenian's largest natural reserves, where many indigenous species reside, such as the Bezoarian Goat and the Armenian moufflon (a species of wild sheep), as well as between five and eight Asian Panthers - an endangered species of which there are only 20 in the greater Caucasus.

Shikahogh reserve bear monument

Bezoarian goat in Shikahogh reserve

For this reason, the first public announcements about building a highway connecting Iran with Armenia, were met with fierce objections from environmentalists and the community leaders. Initially the plan was to construct the road that would pass right through the reserve, making some of the land and the fauna obsolete.

After much debate, the Republic of Armenia government decided to redesign the highway, which now will be passing around the reserve in an alternative route, thus adding 7 km to the original 89 km projected length.

Needless to say that the Highway is of significant importance to the Armenian imports. Blockaded by Turkey and Azerbaijan as a result of the frozen conflict with the latter over the mainly Armenian-inhabited territory of Nagorno Karabagh, Armenia relies on its two other neighbours, Georgia and Iran for the bulk of its import and export. Approximately ten per cent of all imports into Armenia come from the Islamic Republic of Iran via mountainous terrain that often makes the journey dangerous during the winter.

Armenia - Iran highway

Some argue however, that the environmentalists impair the development of these villages, by imposing unnecessary restrictions. For example the already declining population of Kapan villages, including Shikahogh and Tzav (situated in the Shikahogh forest preserve), are prohibited to touch any of the trees in the reserve, including dry tree brunches or those trees which have fallen down as a result of natural causes. These trees could have been used to boost the modest constructions of the village, as well as provide people with fuel for harsh winters. One of the villagers admits “The trees have more value than us humans. This isn’t good. People won’t remain here. If they can take you to court for chopping down one tree then who would want to stay here? They’ll go to the towns. Many have already left.” The only jobs here are to be found in the small hydro-electric plant, where only around 15 villagers are currently employed. Many others have left to work in the Kapan or Kajaran mines. During the last two years, 20 families have already packed up and left Tzav.
Another example of uncompromising environmentalist attitudes is perhaps the opposition towards Tzav village gold mining explorations. Environmentalists are concerned that the mine will damage the Shikahogh preserve, despites the assurances from the German investment company that the explorations will be carried out using modern explosion technologies allowing for minimal pollution on the local environment and despites the mine being 15 kilometres away from the village and from the preserve. Most villagers of course voted for the proceeding of the project, as this will provide them with some job opportunities and means to enhance their poor standards of living.
I think this is a significant example of a progress being prevented by over caution and lack of knowledge perhaps. Since Shikahogh and surrounding towns and villages are in the heart of my case study location, it is therefore important to understand these inner dynamics and social - industrial correlations.
Lastly, the highway was built after much debate, however according to some media sources, it turned out to be less profitable and less usable due to its lengthiness and isolation, therefore the Armenian government came up with another plan to facilitate the transportation between not only Iran but this time with the neighbouring Georgia as well, by designing a massive railroad passing through all three countries.